GoPro Hero 8 Review: 2020

Today I’ll be reviewing the GoPro Hero 8 Black.


I’ve been using the GoPro for the last few weeks and have been testing out all its features in video and photo-taking.


So today, I’ll be giving you guys some insight into what the Hero 8 does well and some of its downfalls.


Before we get started though, I also made a YouTube Video reviewing the GoPro which you can check out down below if you prefer video.



Design Voice Controls
Features Video
GoPro Colour Profile Livestreaming
Microphone Cons
Menu System / Presets Conclusion


Design-wise the Hero 8 has a small pocketable form factor with a grippy textured body. The lens is quite large in comparison and a microphone is positioned right beneath.

GoPro Hero 8

On the side of the camera, you have the mode button to switch between time-lapse, video and camera modes, and a long press will power the camera on and off. 


There’s an additional microphone right beside the mode switch to pick up more sound.


The other side has a detachable battery door, which pops off quite easily, and inside is the battery, SD card slot, and USB C port. 



Underneath is 2 mounting fingers which make it easy to attach to the wide range of GoPro accessories. The main ones I used were the helmet mount, and chesty for mountain bike riding, running and hiking but there’s so many too chose from.


I also used the chesty mount on my dog who is a medium-sized dog, he’s a Staffy so it’s well suited for medium to larger breeds but not so well suited for smaller breeds.


Once the mountings are extended they uncover a speaker used to playback the audio from the footage which is reasonably loud given its size.


gopro hero 8 speaker


The touch screen on the rear is responsive and has a clear display to show what’s in the frame for each shot.


gopro hero 8 touch screen


On top there’s a large button for recording and taking photos which I found to be reasonably easy to operate whilst holding onto the camera with a single hand.


To test how long the battery lasted, I did a battery rundown test with the camera set to continuous recording at 4k60 fps, with high bit rate recording at 100mbps, GPS and wireless-enabled. 


The 1200 milliamp hour battery lasted 50 minutes before completely running flat, which I guess is to be expected given the micro size. The hottest the camera got in that time was just 32 degrees celcius.


In case you owned previous models of GoPro, those batteries are all compatible with the Hero8 but some features aren’t available such as Hypersmooth stabilization set to boost and a few other features.


You could squeeze some extra time out of the batteries by disabling the GPS and wireless connection, turning off the recording lights and changing the settings to completely power down the GoPro when you switch it off,  because even if you do power it down you might not think it but it’s still using battery. 


This is because it’s by default set to standby to quickly power on and be ready for the next shot or video,  so all these little things will get some extra run time out of the battery but if your out shooting for a full day I would take back up batteries with you.



Onto the Hero 8 features now with Hypersmooth definitely being a standout, it removes shakiness out of the footage eliminating the need for a gimbal when recording video.


I found out of the four stabilization settings, Hypersmooth set to “ON” worked well whilst only applying a 10% crop to the frame, which isn’t much at all and still allowed me to get everything I wanted into the shot.  


I took some footage side by side with stabilization turned on and off to give you an idea of the difference it makes when you’re doing any kind of action sports.


This is where the Hero 8 really performs well, eliminating the need for any extra stabilization equipment, letting you focus more on capturing the kind of video you want.


The second most noteworthy feature is Timewarp, which allows you to record a time-lapse in 4k resolution and switch to real-time mid-way through recording.

You are able to do this by simply by tapping on the screen which slows the time-lapse down to realtime, to return to time-lapse mode you just tap the screen again recording speeds up.


I found this to be useful if you really want to highlight certain parts of time-lapse if your walking around, instead of just capturing one scene like in normal time-lapses it gives you a lot more flexibility.


There are also 4x digital lenses to capture the best view of what your up to, including a super wide 16mm lens, Wide 16-34mm, Linear 19-39mm, and narrow 27mm. 


For me, keeping it on Superview which uses the wider lense is great for action sports and point of view perspectives, capturing both the activity and some scenery into the shot, giving it a better overall look.


People forget that GoPro actually started out as solely a camera that took pictures, with no capability for video. Improvements have been made in photo taking as well. It isn’t as powerful as some of the flagship smartphone cameras, which is kind of odd to consider.


With a 12 megapixel camera which when coupled with the SuperPhoto preset really enhances images with more detail and sharpness when taking photos with HDR it removes motion blur, so both of these presets turn out some really nice images.

art mural on building


There is also the ability to shoot in RAW which any serious photographers out there will love for the extra flexibility it provides in post. These images were shot in RAW to give you an idea of how you can enhance them using Photoshop to allow you to give the image your own personal touch and look you were going for.

GoPro Hero 8 RAW photo

above: RAW unedited photo

RAW photo GoPro Hero 8

above: photo after edit

LiveBurst is another feature that is similar to what you get on your smartphone where you take a lot of images in a very short amount of time.


It takes 90 images in a 3-second short video, recording 1.5 seconds before the shutter button is pressed and 1.5 seconds after. This makes it easy to scrub through each frame and pick out the perfect shot you want or share a 3-second video clip in 4k resolution.


Another time-lapse mode available is Night Lapse,  I had it recording whilst digging up the backyard for a good hour to make some veggie patches. It captured everything quite well and even caught the sunrise in the background.


GoPro Colour Profile

When shooting videos I was impressed with GoPros color profile. It’s close to representing what the eye sees and especially in well-lit conditions when the camera’s sensor is getting a lot of light.

example of gopro colour profile

above: Screenshot from Video shot with GoPro Colour profile


The sky looks vibrant, trees and grass, and even people’s skin tone was close to spot on, overall the image has a nice graded look to it. Most serious video creators though will want to use the flat shooting profile to have that extra flexibility in post, similar to shooting photos in RAW.


For most users though, GoPro Colour will do fine. 




The internal microphone picks up decent quality audio, but I did find that even though they say the wind noise reduction is there I had it set to auto and still noticed quite a bit of wind noise getting through when mountain biking.


Another point to keep in mind is that when using the Timewarp feature slowing down to real-time there was no audio being recorded which isn’t great if you’ve decided to capture a special moment mid time-lapse that the audio is an important part of.


Who knows maybe with a firmware update they could make the microphone work during a time warp when switching to real-time.

Menu System / Presets


Navigating the menu system to change settings on the camera was really easy, within just a few taps you can change video settings, switch between time-lapse and photo, and the display itself is easy to see and responsive. 


One of the main problems previously for a lot of people who owned GoPros had was knowing what settings to adjust for different video shooting situations. 


On the Hero 8 they’ve made it super easy by creating 4 pre-made movie shooting presets that make it really easy to just choose a preset and point and shoot.


In particular, I found the Activity preset was well suited for action sports and any kind of activity where you are moving around a lot.


It also extends the time you can shoot using a resolution of 2.7k 60fps instead of 4k, so, smaller file sizes. The other 3 presets include Standard 1080p 60, Slo-Mo 1080p in 240 frames a second which is a lot of fun, and a more Cinematic shot in 4k 30.


If there’s one thing I would change about the presets though, it would be the ability to change the names of custom presets you make.


Yes, there is a long list of names to choose from, but sometimes you want slight variations of an already named preset, and it would be really convenient to name them individually so they’re easy to find without having to dig through each preset menu.


Voice Controls


Voice control is a handy feature and supports a total of 14 different commands.

My experience with this was the picture, video and time-lapse ones worked reliably but it was a little hit and miss. Some didn’t work at all, so it pays to check the picture was taken or it’s started recording.


If your hands are full though or you’re in a precarious place trying to take a photo, I can see how these would come in handy. The standard start and stop recording or take a picture worked pretty consistently though.




The Hero 8 Black will record up to 4k 60fps at it’s maximum quality however Hypersmooth Boost stabilization is unavailable at this setting, it is however available in 4k30.


There is also the option to record with a bit rate of 100mbps which is great for capturing the highest possible detail, but there is a slight trade-off of larger file sizes.


If you want the best possible quality footage then recording with a flat color profile and low sharpness will give you a completely different looking video after editing in post.


For those underwater diving enthusiasts out there, the Hero 8 can go down to a depth of 10m, any deeper than that though and you’ll want to use the enclosure accessory which allows for a total depth of up to 60m.


Live Streaming: YouTube, Facebook Live


You can also live-stream to YouTube, Facebook Live, and Twitch not Instagram though as it’s not yet been enabled on the platform.




So far I’ve covered all the features and great parts of the camera but there are also some downsides.


The battery door for one is definitely not ideal, the door actually detaches super easily, and to remove the battery there is this little plastic tab that seems too basic for this camera.


It would of been better I think if they incorporated the same design as you would see in a DSLR where theres a small spring and latch that locks the battery in place and you simply move it aside to release the battery which brings me to the location of the SD card.


You can’t physically remove the SD card without first removing the battery and even then you will want to have pretty good dexterity in your fingers to release it from the card bay.


I feel like this could have been positioned somewhere a little more user friendly instead of having to remove the battery completely to gain access to it.


The menu system did freeze up on me a few times which left me having to power down the camera and restart it. 


I also had a few instances while shooting in burst mode at 12 megapixels where the camera completely froze after taking the shots. Which again I could only get around by powering it down and turning it back on again, and the images hadn’t processed or saved to the SD card which was kind of disappointing.


My only concerns with this camera are how unprotected the lens is and rear LCD though there are screen and lens protectors available you can also subscribe to GoPro plus for $5 a month which gives you a maximum of 2 replacement cameras per year if anything happens to it in that time.


If you want to keep the lens damage free I would either invest in the screen protector kit ($20) or for another $80 you can get an enclosure called a Super Suite (links down below).




Apart from those couple of points, the GoPro Hero 8 performed really well for what I was using it for. The lens captures a sharp image and the higher bit rate for recording in both 2.7k and 4k makes it an ideal pocketable action camera.


The GoPro audio and light mods available make it a lightweight option for vloggers too, so it’s well worth considering if you’re looking for a super lightweight setup for vlogging.


All in all, this is definitely an impressive little camera for taking traveling or on an adventure, with some powerful features that will serve anyone looking to up their video game, and still be able to take really nice images. 


The thing to consider is if it serves a purpose between a larger DSLR camera and your smartphone. 


I think for action sports or outdoor activities it definitely has a place, smartphones definitely burn through battery shooting in 4k though and DSLRs can run a much higher price. You definitely need to carry extra batteries on board if you are out for a full day of shooting with the GoPro however.


What makes the GoPro so good is its the small form factor. GoPro is pretty well known for having a rugged build and the quality of video and images they can produce are impressive.


I can definitely recommend this to anyone looking for a super small pocketable camera to take traveling. It’s also perfect for recording some interesting point of view shots in whatever sport your into without having to worry about shakiness in the footage.


There will be a link to the GoPro Hero8 along with some of the accessories I used to film below.


Amazon Links GoPro Hero 8

(PAID LINK) (Australia)


Chesty Accessory

(PAID LINK) (Australia) (PAID LINK) (US)

Helmet mount

(PAID LINK) (Australia)


Enclosure (Super Suit)

(PAID LINK) (Australia)


Lens protector kit…

How to build a 4k video editing PC in 2020


This is a step by step guide here to building a 4k editing PC in 2020 on a budget. Featuring the Ryzen 5 2600 CPU, today we’re going to get started by going over the hardware installation, basically assembling the PC. Then moving on to downloading and installing the drivers and finally seeing how it performs.

My goal here was to build a 4k editing work station, without wasting money on unnecessary components. After testing it, and editing a video for YouTube it held up well!

Jump to a section

The Parts

Setting up/ Things you’ll need

CPU Installation

CPU Cooler Installation

Memory Installation

Prepping the Case

Motherboard Installation

Power Supply Installation

Front Panel Connectors


Hard Drives and SSDs

Power Cables

Graphics Card Installation

Cable Management



Setting up/ Things you’ll need

Tools needed are a magnetic parts tray, a knife, pair of side cutters, needle nose pliers, thermal compound, cable ties, and  a size 1 and size 2 Philips head screwdriver.


Set up anti static workspace

Open up power supply, flip switch to off position, plug it in to ground chassis.

To remove any static electricity built up in your body you simply place your hand on the power supply.

corsair 500 watt power supply unit

Another way to prevent static electricity is to not build a PC in a carpeted room stick to a wooden or tiled floor but if you can’t help that setting up a static safe work environment is the next best call.

Clear some space in work area

Next start with your mother board.

Goal: build a 4k editing work station, without wasting money on unnecessary components.

Next start with your mother board. After unpackaging the motherboard go ahead and set the I.O. shield aside for later on.

Use the motherboard box as a test bench, it keeps debris away from the board that might be on your work surface. It’s also an alternative to one of those anti-static mats you can buy.

motherboard box test bench

CPU Installation


For this build, the CPU I chose was the  AMD ryzen 5 2600. It has 6 cores which is enough to handle 4k editing. Its base clock speed is 3.4GHz and can boost up to  3.9Ghz.

amd ryzen 5 2600 CPU

Time to install it.

Step 1

Take your CPU out of it’s packaging and take not of the golden triangle on the lower left side of the CPU. 

AMD Ryzen 5 2600 CPU golden triangle mark

This triangle lines up with the triangle on the processor socket. Turn the CPU to match the 2 triangles up.

Gigabyte B450 gaming AM4 Socket triangle marker

Step 2

Lift the Metal arm on the CPU socket out and all the way up, lower the processor into the socket.


It shouldn’t take any force to drop in if it does the orientation is incorrect or the metal arm hasn’t been raised. Once it’s dropped into place lower the metal arm back down and now the CPU is installed.


Memory Installation

For our memory I’ve gone with a nice low latency DDR4 3000 kit from Corsair. I went with 16gigs of ram in an 8gig by 2 configuration. This allows for dual channel operation for better performance and gives us plenty of expansion for the future so I can go up to 32gigs with no problems.

corsair ddr4 3000mhz vengance lpx memory


Start by pulling back the tabs for the ram slot this motherboard both sides will pull back but some more modern boards you can only pull back one of the two.

When lining up the memory carefully check the position of the notch, in order for it to fit in the slot correctly. 

line it up and then push firmly on both sides until you hear a click on each end.


SSD installation

Nows it’s time to install the N.2 SSD I’m using a 250Gig 970 from Samsung but the instructions are the same regardless.

samsung 970 ssd


First find the N.2 slot on your motherboard, hold the SSD up against it to see which mounting post is going to be suitable.

This one is already in the right position to suit this SSD so all we need to do is remove the screw and set it aside on the magnetic tray so we don’t lose it.

You won’t need a lot of force when installing your SSD hand tight is just fine. As for the drive itself, it installs just like laptop memory.

So you go up at an angle, push it into the slot and then just hold it down in place while you’re screwing it in.

SSD install

Something to watch out for here guys is that while most computer screws are size 2 Philips these are usually size 1s. So you’re probably going to need to change your bit before you finish installing.

CPU cooling installation

Now lets turn our attention to cooling, AMD processors come with a heat sink in the box and also come from the factory with thermal compound already applied, which ensures proper heat transfer to keep your CPU cool.

wraith CPU cooler

First remove the brackets that came already fitted to the motherboard the cooler screws directly to the motherboard so you won’t need these. The backing plate won’t be removed we will use this to screw the cooler into so it can stay in place.

remove brackets B450

When you’re fitting the heat sink first make sure that where the cable is coming out is somewhat close to the CPU fan connector on the motherboard.


The screws are spring-loaded so you do need to apply some pressure as you’re screwing them in to get started on the thread.

installing CPU cooler

I recommend getting all 4 started then tightening down evenly so that there is equal pressure onto the CPU you don’t won’t uneven contact so tighten them down until they’re firm.


 As your going it pays to package back up the boxes and put them aside away from your work area to keep it nice and tidy, it saves you having to do a big clean up at the end.


Preparing case

NZXT H510i case

I went with the NZXT 510 mid tower case because it has nice cable management options, a glass side panel which is going back in the box to keep it scratch-free until the build is done.

You can see inside the case here is a pretty standard layout there is a bottom mounted power supply, standard ATX layout and then an exhaust fan out the back.


As I’m removing screws from the case to keep them safe I’m putting them in this magnetic parts tray, you can write on the tray itself if you aren’t going to remember where they went or alternatively you can use zip lock backs with labels to do the same.



Motherboard Installation

Now it’s time to install the motherboard, to do that, we’re going to need to install the I.O shield first.


Do a test fit of the IO shield over the ports on the motherboard before you install it to make sure it’s got enough clearance, otherwise they can stick into the ports and short them out which we definitely don’t want to happen.


Now we install it into the back of the case by lining it up, then pressing on each corner.


The last thing we need to check, is if the correct standoffs are installed inside the case.

This one is good it’s actually got the 9 standard ATX ones pre-installed including one of these handy locator stand off  that will hold the board in place for you while your screwing in the rest of them.


Because this is a micro ATX mother board we’ll be removing these outside 2 standoffs and the middle one needs to move in 1 hole to correctly line up with the mounting holes in the motherboard. To do that, grab some long nose pliers and unscrew the 2 standoffs to re-position the middle one


case stand offs


Be careful to check the standoffs before installing your motherboard because if you’ve got an extra standoff scratching along the back of your board, it can actually cut these traces, destroying your motherboard, which won’t be covered under warranty.


To double-check this you just pick up the board, handle it by the edges, plastic connectors or back plates. I really like holding onto the CPU cooler because assuming you’ve got one with a decent mounting mechanism, that’s a really really secure handhold for it.


As you lower in the board, I like to have it at about a 10 to 15-degree angle as I’m sliding it towards the back of the case, that prevents us from scraping the back of the board along with any standoffs that might or might not be in the right spots.

B450 gigabyte motherboard install


Now that we’ve re-positioned the motherboard we’re going to use that little locating standoff to hold it in place and look through every hole and make sure that we can see exactly the right number of standoffs that we were expecting to see. You might need the torch on your phone if you’re having trouble seeing the standoffs.


I can see that each mounting hole has a corresponding standoff so we can go ahead and screw the board in. 


Motherboard screws and any additional screws and standoffs are all included in the hardware that comes with your case. We’re going to be using the 6/32 button head screws.


If you’re even not sure that you’ve got the right screw, you can always just hand thread one in, and as long as it goes easily, you’ll know that you’re not going to cross-thread it.


Don’t over-tighten these if you can help it, once you start to meet resistance give it another 1/8th of a turn, that’s it. Now, look at that! It’s in!


Power Supply Installation

corsair 550 watt power supply

Now since were done handling most of the ESD sensitive components of our build, we can go ahead and install our power supply now.

Power Cables

Before mounting it were going to plug in the cables first to make it easier. Were going to be using the CPU power cable, the VGA power cable to power the Graphics card, and finally the cable with the 24 pin plug that will hook up to the motherboard.

power supply cables


I’m going to go fan side down because this case has lots of space on the underside to draw in fresh air, prevent placing your PC on carpeted floors because there is little if any air flow to keep it cool!


Now as we’re putting it in we can just place it down, push towards the motherboard and then slide into the back of the case, then using the            6-32 x 4 screws to secure the power supply.

power supply installation


Although it seems like there’s a lot of cables you can put them in 3 main groups. The cables from the power supply that powers motherboard and graphics card, the case cables which connect the ports and buttons on the top of the case to the motherboard and the fan cables which connect to the motherboard also.


Front Panel Connectors

It’s best here to check the motherboard manual, it gives you clear instructions on were each pin needs to be installed.

The B450 motherboard has a splitter cable that divides the pins up into individual connectors, so you really need to manual to see which pin goes were.

Fan Connectors

There is one fan connector near the PCI 16x slot which is a good place to run the wire down from the top to connect one of the case fans.

nzxt case fan connector

nzxt case fan connector

The other connector is located next to the RAM slots.

Plug Cables into the motherboard

We’ll connect the case cables first. If your not sure where the cables go the motherboard manual is great for reference here. For this motherboard the USB 3 cable will plugin as sown in the picture below, the HD Audio cable is near the same area of the motherboard.

usb 3.0 connection

HD audio cable connection


This main power cable connects to the motherboard, and the clip corresponds to the little clip on the side there.

24 pin motherboard connection

Next up we’ve got our 8 pin EPS connector, you can tell the difference between this one and an 8 pin PCIE express connector in a couple of ways.


One is that if it splits apart it will split into 4 and 4 instead of 6 and 2 and the second way is that many PCIE Express connectors actually have the gap betwee 2 of the pins bridged, here you can tell theres still a little gap because it’s a 6 + 2.


Also they helpfully label them, CPU. So this one goes right up the top, again lining the clip up with the hook and I found the best way to cable manage this one is to run it out the back of the case.

CPU power connector

For PCI Express the type of cables your going to use will depend on your graphics card, I’m using a GTX 1660 that has 8 pin power connector.

Cable Management

It’s fairly standard to find disposable cable ties in the packaging for your power supply or your case or both, but if you want to secure larger wires together I would recommend getting some of these velcro ties.

velcro ties wire management


This case include loops for wire management and is really convenienct when you’re trying to build a PC.


To achieve a decent cable management job your main focus is to make sure that no wires are crossing over each other and that they are flat against the case, if they aren’t flat you will have a lot of trouble refitting the rear case panel.

pc cable management


Graphics card installation

Next up is the graphics card installation, we will start by taking out the second and third from the top PCI slot covers that sit below the 16X slot were the graphics card will be mounted. There’s a single screw that holds in each slot cover, remove these with the number 2 size Philips head screwdriver.

picture of PCI slot covers


You also need to loosen 2 screws holding a sliding plat near the PCI slots and move it outward in order to fit the graphics card in.

Most graphics cards have a double-wide I.O. plate that accommodates extra ports and larger coolers needed by more power cards.


Now we can prepare the slot by moving the tab back, to allow the card to be fitted.

I found it easier to line up the IO first and checked it was aligned at the rear of the case, making sure the tabs are inside the case instead of outside otherwise they won’t go in.

Once it looks aligned switch back to this side and look down through the gaps you’ll notice the holes, that confirms it’s in the right spot and finally check to make sure the back tab on the card is seated correctly.


Push down with even pressure until you hear a click and that’s it! If the tab locks back into place, which it seems that it has then it’s installed, lets go ahead and install the screws to secure it to the case. 

Refit the slot cover screws now to secure the graphics card to the case.

securing graphics card to case

Now we’ll go ahead and connect the PCI Express connector to power the card.

Now that we’ve got this installed we’re close to booting it up for the first time.


Plugin the power cable and switch the power supply on.

We’ll plug in our monitor, keyboard, wireless adapter for the mouse and keyboard and we’re ready to push the power button.

Upon first start hitting the delete key repeatedly will enter the BIOS to see if all the components are showing and here we can change our memory speed because as standard it will default to a slower speed.

bios screen

Once at the BIOS screen Open Advanced Memory Settings amd straight away you can see the memory frequency is only running at 2100 Mhz to change it to our faster rated speed select Extreme Memory Profile or XMP and Select Profile 1.

Extreme memory profile 1

Straight away you can see the speed has changed to 3000 Mhz so all theres left to do is save and exit and from there install windows. 

Windows Install

I’ve created a Windows boot USB drive to installed and also purchased a copy of Windows. When it loads into windows setup you enter the product key if you have a licensed version and just follow the prompts to install windows.


Once Windows is installed and your connected to the network we then need to install the drivers for motherboard, LAN ethernet, AUDIO, Graphics card and in this case I’ll be using a wireless USB adapter so I’ll be needing drivers for that as well. This motherboard doesn’t come with a wireless card standard so that’s the reason for going with the USB wireless option here.


You can download each driver from the manufacturers’ website and just save them to your desktop, then unzip each folder and load the setup and complete each install procedure which is pretty straight forward especially if you chose the express install option.

*links to manufacturers websites*


I went with this Wi-Fi Adaptor by ASUS that is able to handle 4k streaming and is a good alternative to a Wifi card you have to install to the motherboard. It just plugs straight into a usb port and now that we have our driver installed we can connect it straight to the WiFi network.


To stress-test the CPU I’m just running it through a render of Cinebench R20 to see how it performs, I was pretty happy with the score it got and the great thing about Cinebench is you can compare the score once you’re done with other PC builds online.

cinebench r20 test

I also edited this video on this PC as well and was impressed with how it handles 4k footage both scrubbing through the timeline and overall workflow was pretty great.


Thanks for reading this guide! all parts are listed below. leave a comment if you have any questions or have built a PC as well and what your favourite parts of the build were.

The Parts

Links to all the parts used in the build

Buy AMD 2600 CPU On Amazon (PAID LINK):

Buy Gigabyte B450M Pro4 Motherboard On Amazon (PAID LINK):

Buy CORSAIR 2 x 8GB RAM On Amazon (PAID LINK):

Buy Samsung 970 SSD 250GB On Amazon (PAID LINK):

Buy GigabyteGTX 1660 6G Graphics Card On Amazon (PAID LINK):

Buy NZXT H510i On US Amazon (PAID LINK):

Buy CORSAIR 550w PSU On Amazon (PAID LINK):

Buy ASUS Nano wireless usb hub On US Amazon (PAID LINK):


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