How To Make A Photo Turn Table Using Raspberry Pi PICO!

raspberry pi pico

So this is the newest addition the the raspberry pi family it’s called the Pico!

Now this ones not a miniature computer like the pi 3b+ or Pi zero, it’s actually a stand alone micro-controller.

I have also made a YouTube video on this which you can check out here:

It can be used in a multitude of different electronic projects such as games, testing equipment, robotics , but today we’ll be using it to make a photography turn table which will spin subjects around to photograph or shoot b-roll.


The 3D printed parts were drawn up on the site Tinkercad which is a very straight forward 3D modelling program anyone can get started with.

you can access the project files here:

If you don’t have access to a 3D printer, there are some very affordable 3D print on demand services online that are a great option for printing your designs and shipping them to you. I’ll have a link to a few of them down below.

Now just as a disclaimer due to the size of the small stepper motor used in this project this one is well suited for light objects but nothing heavy or the motor simply won’t be able to spin the top so fair warning in terms of what this one is capable of.

Electrical Parts Needed

To start of with these are the electrical parts you’ll need :

*all parts are on amazon and will be linked below this post*

  1. A Raspberry Pi Pico microcontroller board
  2. Small integrated bread board with these dimensions
  3. 6 male to socket jumper wires
  4. 2 socket to socket jumper wires
  5. Arduino power module
  6. Stepper motor 28BYJ-48
  7. Motor Driver board with a ULN2003 driver chip
  8. Micro usb cable to usb A
  9. 9V battery and with barrel jack plug connection.


hardware needed for project

  1. Lazy suzan table bearing assembly
  2. 4X #4 size 6mm long self tapper screws
  3. 4X M3X10mm screws
  4. 4X M3X10 threaded Spacers


tools for pico project

  1. Philips screw driver
  2. 3D printer or have access to a 3D printing service locally
  3. Vernier calipers for measuring components
  4. Hot glue gun or blue tac depending on if you want to re-use the components for another project.

Now this project can be broken down into 5 main parts.

1.Setting up the Raspberry Pi Pico and coding environment on your computer

2. Building the electrical circuit

3.Coding the program that will make the electrical parts function

4.Designing and printing parts to assemble the turn table

5.Turn table assembly and testing

1 – Setup Pico

To begin with we need to set up the Raspberry Pi Pico by downloading a program called Thonny.

Thonny is used for writing Micro Python code specifically for creating a working program we can run once the PICO is powered on.

Once you have downloaded and Installed Thonny the next step is to:

Add Micro Python firmware to the Pico, to do this

bootsel raspberry pi pico

Attach raspberry pi pico to breadboard
Connect micro usb cable to PICO
Hold down bootsel button on Pico
While holding down button connect cable then to usb port on PC

There should now be a USB drive type device pop up with 2 files
click on the MicroPython
Click on the ‘Download UF2 file’ button

Drag file from your downloads into Pico folder
And now Pico can communicated with Thonny to load programs onto the device using code we’ve written.

Install IDE environment. Download it from

2 – Building the Stepper Motor Circuit

After the development environment is setup along with the PICO its time to build the electrical circuit, to get started you’ll need in front of you the follow things

photo turn table parts needed

6 male to socket jumper wires
And 2 socket to socket jumper wires
Arduino power module
ULN2003 Motor Driver circuit board
Stepper Motor 28BYJ-48
And lastely the 9V battery and barrel jack plug

Start by attaching the Pico with the micro usb connector facing out and insert it into the breadboard lining one side of the pins up with the C column and the other side into the h column this leaves us enough room to fit the wires beside the micro controller in order to connect it with the motor driver


Next attach the power module behind the microcontroller leaving enough space between the PICO and the power module so they don’t get in the way of one another

Next using this diagram we’re going to install wires connecting the GPIO pins 1 2 4 and 5 to the motor driver board corresponding IN1 IN2 IN3 and IN4 labelled pins in order for the Pico to be able to talk with the motor chip to tell the stepper motor when to move.

photo turn table wiring diagram


So Pin 1 will connect to IN1 Pin 2 with IN2 Pin 4 with IN3 and finally Pin 5 with IN4

Finally attach the Stepper motor plug into the motor driver board and plug in the micro USB cable into the Pico and the other end into your computer and the barrel connector into the power module to supply power to the bread board.

3 – Coding

Now it’s time to code our program that will make the stepper motor turn a full 360 degrees continuously.

photo turn table code

To do this we first need to look at the ULN2003 motor driver chip documentation where it states to move the motor forward we have to put specific pins high for a moment in order for the spindle to turn:
Pin 1, then 1 and 2, then 2 and 3 and so on. In the MicroPython coding language it can be done like so:

First we’ll start by configuring GPO, GP1, GP2 and GP3 pins for output:

import time

from machine import Pin

pin1 = Pin(0,Pin.OUT)
pin2 = Pin(1,Pin.OUT)
pin3 = Pin(2,Pin.OUT)
pin4 = Pin(3,Pin.OUT)

pins = [
pin1, pin2, pin3, pin4,

Next we need to write those steps as pins that must have a status of high to move:

steps = [
[pin1, pin2],
[pin2, pin3],
[pin3, pin4],
[pin4, pin1],

current_step = 0

Based off which step we are currently in we can select which pins must be set to high. After reaching the last element the sequence starts from the beginning:

while True:
high_pins = steps[current_step]
current_step += 1
if current_step == len(steps):
current_step = 0

So here we have an infinite loop that for current step sets all pins to low, then sets selected pins to high, increments step number and waits 1 millisecond.

So this code will turn the stepper motor clockwise and if you want to slow it down you just change the number of milliseconds the wait time is set too.

If you want he stepper motor to run in reverse you simply write the steps out in reverse and it will make so the motor starts in it’s final position pin4 and moves backwards.

We’ll save this to the Raspberry Pico and save it under the name which when named this will automatically run the program when the PICA is powered on.

4. Designing photo turn table and printing parts

Next up is designing the turn table base and top plate.
Now for something like this I like to use Tinker CAD it’s a free online 3D modelling software that’s really easy to use if your a hobbyist and even has a small set of tutorial steps to get you up and running.

I wanted the stepper motor to be inset to the base and spin an upper section while the lower part remained stationary. So I started by measuring the stepper motor itself to work out how the base would be designed around it being the centre of the model.

base design

The stepper motors shaft was positioned off centre to the motor I had to make sure it was the centre point, it also needed to sit down into the lower section enough to were the only part sticking out the top was the shaft to attach the table too.

I left enough space under base to fit all the electronic components so they were hidden and could be attached to the underside without being in the way, it also made it a lot cleaner looking and easy to move around.

under base design

Admittedly it did take a few revisions to get it exactly how I wanted it but sometimes when your making something from scratch you have to expect that things won’t always turn out perfect in which case revisions to the design are always going to happen.

Once I had the 3D model complete I saved it as an STL file and sliced it in CURA which I find to be the easiest to use to create a 3D printer file type, transferred it to a micro SD card and printed

cure splice turn table

The two separate pieces on my Ender 3, 3D printer which produces some decent models for the price and all up the printing time was little over 25 hours. Once you have the design dialled in though and your happy with it, the 3D printer pretty much takes care of the rest.

3d printing turn table

5 – Assembly

So we have the PICA set up, the code written, the circuit is built, the parts printed and now it’s time to put it all together

Fit the Stepper motor into the base first, and screw it into place with 2 #4 size 6mm long self tapper screws.

turn table assembly 1

To fit the wires through the channel I removed them from the plug, before you do this make sure to take a picture so you know the order they go back in, then run the wires through the channel running down through the turn table base.

assembly 3

A tip here is to run 1 or 2 wires first and then tape any additional wires to the existing wire that has been run already and pull the rest through.

Now reconnect the wires into the plug one by one making sure to get the orientation right, you shouldn’t be able to pull the wires back through once they are locked in.

assembly 4

Next up mark out were the bearing plate will sit central to the stepper motor spindle and secure it over the top of the stepper motor leaving the spindle sticking out the top for the table to connect to,

assembly 2

Push down the table section onto the shaft and let it sit on the top bearing plate.

Now flip the turn table upside down to start fitting the electrical circuit components inside the base.

Start by fitting the :
breadboard with Pico attached
Fit the 9Volt battery and barrel jack plug connection

assembly 5

Fit 4 spacers and screws to the motor driver board and secure into place next to battery either with blue tac or a hot glue gun for a more permanent job.

assembly 6

Fit the arduino Power module to the other side and tidy up the wiring so that none of it is sticking out below the base, and make sure enough space is left to connect and disconnect the power plug easily into the power module

assembly 7

Once all the electrical parts are secured that’s the assembly done

Changing turn table speed through code

When the barrel jack plug is connected to the power module, it automatically runs through the program and starts spinning the table.

If you need to change the rotation speed, first disconnect the power connector, and jumper wire from pin 1 of the bread board to remove power from the circuit, and plug the PICA back into the computer via the micro usb port.

Open up Thonny, connect to the PICO and open the file to change the time delay of each step in milliseconds.

just a couple numbers higher will slow down the rotation of the stepper motor considerably.

Once you’ve changed the time delay save the file and disconnect the usb cable connection to the pica, plug the jumper wire back to pin 1 on the breadboard and after reconnecting the power cable the table rotations speed should have changed.


Overall it turned out to be a fun project to make and definitely could be upgraded in the future with a more powerful stepper motor, an on/off switch instead of the plug and a few other addons to make it more customizable.

However it serves it’s purpose as a photography turn table and I was surprised just how much weight it could support. For the $4 dollar price tag the PICO is definitely a great addition to the raspberry pi line up and I think will have a lot of applications especially in smaller retro style gaming systems for makers in 2021.

Let me know down in the comments what you plan on making with the PICO I’ll be down there answering any questions.

So that’s it from me, if your interested in making this same project I left a link to the project files below as well as a link to the Raspberry Pi Pica, and everything you need for this one, if you enjoyed this post make sure to leave a comment and consider checking out some of my other tech reviews.

———————-Project Files————————

————————Project Parts————————

PICO Australia

United States

PICO with presoldered header Pins(affiliate link)

——————–Electrical Parts——————-

(affiliate link) stepper motor and driver:

(affiliate link) jumper leads:

(affiliate link) 9V battery clip:

(affiliate link) 9V battery:


arduino power module:

————————Project Tools———————— (affiliate link) vernier calipers:

(affiliate link) 3D printer used:

(affiliate link) philips screwdriver:

(affiliate link) hot glue gun:

(affiliate link) blue tack:

————————3D print on demand services————-





(affiliate link) philips #4 6mm long screws

(affiliate link) M3x10 screw:

(affiliate link) M3x 10 threaded space:

(affiliate link) Lazy suzan bearing:


Aputure MC Review: Best portable budget LED light?

aputure mc video light

The Aputure MC is a super compact RGB light with a heap of really nice features for portable lighting on the fly.


I’ve used this one a bunch over the last few videos and found it to be a great option to set up quickly for product lighting or  if you need colour accuracy when your setting up scene lighting this is a great option.


It’s currently $150 dollars which I think is value for money considering the features Aputure has packed into this one so lets take a look at what it comes with.


aputure mc carry bag

What’s Included


Inside the box you get:

this little pouch to keep it protected with a clip attached to it, makes it easy to clip attach to your backpack or on a belt loop

a diffuser

USB C to USB A cable

some sticky velcro pads for attaching to light shades for example

aputure mc hot shoe mount

a hot shoe mount to attach it to the top of your camera for interview style video or photography.


aputure mc

Build Quality

The build quality feels quite premium on this one with the buttons and controls being responsive, the body is made from a combination of aluminium and plastic with of course these super strong magnets on the back, theres also this red accent around the outside of the led panel which looks really nice too. 

aputure mc oled screen



The OLED screen is bright enough for you to easily see what settings its on everything is reasonably spaced apart, which makes it easier to read.


The MCs size is a little larger than a credit card and about a fingers width wide, making it a great choice if your looking for a small form factor light.


What it is

The MC has a brightness rating of 400Lux and has full HUE, saturation and intensity control meaning you have the power to reproduce any color you want. 

aputure mc colour wheel

There is 3 main lighting modes HSI, CCT, and FX. HSI is for your colours, CCT gives you control over a white light with a bicolour range of 3200K to 6500k and FX is a set of 9 built in lighting effects which can come in handy for a whole range of movie style scenes.


Theres Faulty bulb

cop car, 






Also, magnets! These two on the back are very strong they stick to anything that’s metal they’re even strong enough to hang off a wall stud if you can find one which makes it a very versatile little light for quick run and gun type setups.

aputure mc magnets

They’re strong enough to were you don’t feel like the lights going to easily come unstuck even if the surface it’s mounted to is mobile.

Speaking of being mobile it makes a great on camera light to use when your vlogging, easily  bright enough to use as a key light for those purposes or even as an extra source of light for low light video or photography.




So what about charging, well there is two ways to charge this one you can use the supplied USB C cable port to plug in which takes 2 hours for a full charge.

There’s also wireless charging so it will work on one of those wireless charge pads but won’t charge up as quickly, taking a little longer at 3.5 hours.

aputure mc charging

There is also the option to plug this light into a power bank and run it for as long as the power banks battery has power which makes battery life a non issue,


One thing I did notice when running this light off a power bank though is that the light will heat up quite substantially but if your not holding onto it and have it mounted instead that’s not really an issue but something to keep in mind.


The shorter USBC cable you use the better and if you want maximum light output while using a power bank it’s output should at least be 5V 2Amps to ensure you both charge the internal battery of the MC and keep it so that it can retain a 100% light output. 


Anything less than 2Amps of output from the power source your connected to will affect the lights maximum output by 20% increments all the way down to 0% depending on the power source, just stick to the recommended 5v 2amps and you shouldn’t have any issues


Next up is the Sidus app which allows you to have complete control over the light wirelessly, so you can change the HUE, saturation, Brightness and turn on the different effects as well. 


I found this really useful if you’ve got the light setup in a tricky spot and can’t easily get to the manual controls. 


There’s also this neat colour picker feature that makes it so you can colour match any image you point your phones camera to. You simply take a picture of your subject and the light will match up to the colour instantly and re-create it illuminated through the light and all you have to decide is how bright you want it.


And from what I’ve experienced, its quite accurate which is a big time saver, so you don’t have to sit there trying to get the light colour right instead it’s so much easier.


The MC when paired with other lights uses a mesh network so that each new light acts like a signal booster, effectively increasing the strength of the network with each light thats added.


So as long as your lights are within 80 metres of one another you can setup a range of lights up to 400 metres away and still be able to change each of the lights settings.


MC kits

The MC can also be purchased in a travel kit of 4 or a production kit of 12 and the case itself has wireless charger pads built in so you don’t have to deal with a bunch of cables running everywhere.

picture credit: Aputure website

On the side of the MC are manual controls which included a control wheel that also acts as a button when pressed in to navigate through the lights menu settings


Beside that is the on/off switch along with a USB C port for charging.

Underneath the light is a ¼ inch 20 thread for mounting to tripods or camera rigs easily as well.

On top is an OLED display that lets you know the battery level, blutooth connection and mode and adjustment levels of the light.

Manual Controls

A long press in of the control wheel will bring you to a main menu where you can select which mode you want the light to be in.


For example if you select HSI it will then give you options to change the levels of intensity, HUE, and saturation by using the control wheel and to change between the three you simply press the control wheel in once.

Press and hold the wheel once more to return to the main menu and next up is FX.

This allows you to select between 9 different special effects, including Fire, Cop car, pulsing, Party, Lightning, TV, Faulty Bulb, Fireworks, or Paparazzi.


BT makes it so you can reset the Bluetooth connection if your having trouble seeing it on your smartphone or need to un pair it from a group of lights to use with a different setup which is neat.


CCT is a white online light where you can change the colour temp from 3200k to 6500K press the button again to switch to the intensity level, I like how you can fine tune the intensity by 1% increments I know it’s not the case for other LED lights of this size and cost to be able to get such a fine adjustment which is a real benefit of the MC, you know sometimes you just want a very dimmly lit light in a background that isn’t too over bearing.



So to recap, wireless charging, wireless control, well designed app, super bright for the size, portable, and magnetic mounting, makes this one a very versatile light and well worth picking up if your a content creator 


That’s everything from me, if  guys are interested in picking one of these up there will be a link down below.


If you enjoyed this post make sure to leave a comment down below and consider checking out some of the other reviews!


Aputure MC

US (affiliate link)

AU (affiliate link)

Sandisk Extreme Portable SSD Review

sandisk extreme portable ssd

I have done a video review of this which you can see here!:

Today I’ll be reviewing a portable SSD  from SanDisk. I‘ve been using this one for around 3 months and it’s main benefit is that you can use it to edit 4k resolution video.


A common misconception about working with 4k footage is that you can just use your regular mechanical hard drive but from experience most standard hard drives just aren’t fast enough to smoothly edit videos in higher resolutions. 


You need to have a hard drive with a high enough read speed to keep up with the large movie files your working with.


In this case this one has a read speed of 550mb/s which makes the work flow much smoother instead of being extremely jumpy and buffering all the time almost like your trying to watch a movie online with a slow internet connection.

sandisk ssd size


This little guy is super portable and is about the same size as a credit card and super light weight. I also like how thin the body is along with the hole in the upper corner to attach it to a clip inside your bag for that extra security.


These will work on Mac or PC and have as standard a USB type C connection but can also be adapted to suit USB A as well with the included USB to USB Type A adapter.

Dust/Water Resistance

It also has a IP55 rating for water and dust resistance so you don’t have to worry about it getting damaged if your using it to edit photo or videos remotely.

Perfect for those times you might be in a remote location taking videos or photos and need to offload your files to keep on going.

Inside the box

Inside the box is a cable with USBC on both ends for the higher data transfer speeds as well as a USB Type A 3.1 adapter so if your setup doesn’t have USB C ports then this will still work for you. 


These are available in capacities up to 2 Terabyte for really large projects but for what I need it for 500GB works for me.


The size of hard drive you will need will really depend on what format you shoot video in. For example I generally record with sonys XAVC S 4k 30fps format which uses up to 100mb/s a second which definitely creates a lot of large video files at the end of filming if your doing a full day of it.

I shot a wedding late last year and all together the unedited footage added up to over 100Gigs so having this hard drive of this size was perfect to offload that footage to.



The 500gb version is priced at $162 dollars here in Australia I’ll put the US price up here somewhere for you guys.


Something I do like to do is keep my edited movie files stored on a slower External hard drive like this one from Seagate which has a slower read speed but is much less expensive.


This is good way to store your work that you want to back up and just keep the faster drive for editing current projects. 



Overall this is a great option if you need something super small, portable with high transfer speeds so you can spend less time offloading footage and more time creating.


Let me know down in the comments below what hard drives you like to use or have had the most success with I’ll be hanging out down there and if you guys want to check this one out there will be a link down down below.


That’s all from me, if you enjoyed this post, make sure to leave a comment down below, feel free to check out some other reviews I’ve written while your here.

Link down below to pick up one for yourself.

Amazon US (affiliate link)

The 500GB version is now less money at $125!



click here to check out some other reviews


Cygnett ChargeUp Boost 10,000mAh Portable Power Bank Review

cygnett powerbank

I made a review on YouTube which you can check out as well here:

This is a piece of tech I use a lot,  a portable power bank made by Cygnett that not only charges my phone up but also acts as an extra power source while your out filming.

I own 2 of these that are an essential item that gets packed into my camera backpack whenever I head out for a shoot.


This one has 10,000 mah of power on demand with 2 usb outputs at the top to charge a few different devices simultaneously.

Though I’ve ever really used it for one thing at a time. The battery types this one houses are Lithium Polymer so this one has 2 x 5000mah battery cells inside the housing.

Theres a small power button that you need to press to turn it on and a digital display has a number that gives you a battery percentage left remaining. This light will stay on as long as the power banks being used and supplying power which makes it easy to monitor how much power is left in one of these.


The size is very similar to that of my smartphone the Note9, which to be fair is a larger phone but here are the dimensions anyway to give you an exact idea of it’s size.

It weighs 230 grams and has these rounded edges which make it easy to slip into pockets and doesn’t dig into your leg if you need to carry it on you.

Power Output

The Output of each USB-A port is 5V 2.4Amps (12W) so that means each is capable of fast charging. To recharge this one, there’s a micro-USB port next to the other 2 ports that will charge it up back to full capacity.


What comes in the box

Theres a single USB-A to micro USB cable that comes with the box for recharging, I just leave mine on charge overnight to use for the next day. It’s a rare occasion I’ll use all the available power in a single day though.


According to Cygnett these ones can recharge a smartphone 3.8 times based on an iPhone 8 which has a 1820mah battery inside.

So this is a general guide for you to see how many times you can recharge later models of phones or other devices you might have.



This one is priced currently at $64 and is compatible with iPhone, Android and tablets along with any other devices that house a rechargeable battery.

I sometimes use this one to charge up my wireless headphones, wireless keyboard or any device I might have packed into a bag that I want to have full charge for when I need it!



So this power bank is perfect if you have lots of devices you need to power or keep on functioning throughout the day.

My main motivation behind getting 2 of these was to run my audio recorder for a full day whilst out filming and extend the camera battery life without having to swap out the battery mid shoot.


Less expensive option?

If your looking for a power bank to keep your devices charged up this one is great for that but if you need something not as big you could get away with a smaller rated power bank.

For example, you might need a power bank only for recharging your smartphone to 100% throughout the day. For these purposes I would recommend something like the baby brother of this model which is the 5000mah version which is still capable of recharging your phone for almost 2 full charges from flat, which is a little less expensive at $40.



So this one is definitely an essential bit of tech I carry with me, I’ll leave a link to this one down below for you guys to check out for yourself.

That’s all from me, I hope you enjoyed this video, if you did leave it a thumbs up and subscribe for more tech videos like this in the future.

Thanks for reading and while your here, check out some of the other tech reviews I’ve done.

Link to purchase the cygnett powerbank down below.

Cygnett ChargeUp Boost 10,000mAh Portable Power Bank

(affiliate link) AU:

LowPro Protactic AWII Camera Backpack Review

lowpro protactic awii

If you would like to see the video review I did of this camera back pack you can check that out here:

Today I’ll be reviewing  a camera backpack that I’ve been using for around 3 months. It’s been probably one of the best gear purchases I’ve made in the last little while to have my camera gear with me and easily accessible while I’m out filming.

It’s made by LowPro, it’s full name is the Protactic 350AWII. When I was on the hunt for one I didn’t want it to be too big and bulky, it had to sit on my shoulders well, and it needed to have a modular design, hard wearing exterior and the Protactic ticks all those boxes.

I would say it’s a medium sized pack that holds a mirrorless camera and a number of lenses and extra gear you need quite well. It’s design really makes it suitable for any number of gear combinations, being able to secure a tripod or gimbal to the outside of the bag with these included straps to connect to the outside is a very useful feature.

Comfort level

lowpro proctactic awii comfort level

If your using a bike, scooter, or just walking to get from A to B the shoulder straps and waist strap hold the bag on really nicely and feels very secure and comfortable to wear for long periods.

The back has a very breathable design with added cushioning so you don’t have anything digging into your back. There’s 3 quick access compartments mounted on the sides of the back and one at the top under a hard shell to add extra protection for what’s inside.


This one can carry a volume of 16 litres, weighs around 2kg and is primarily a camera and lens bag rather than a bag that will hold regular items too like clothes books and other things. It can however hold a 13 inch laptop or larger iPad which comes in handy if you need to edit photos or video while your out and about.


Modular design

lorpro protactic awii modular design

The outside of the bag has this modular design with heaps of these slip lock loops to connect extra accessories. Also, smaller bags to hold gear you need easily accessible like camera batteries, SD cards and or even a lens wipe and cleaner.

The waist strap is also a utility belt with two zip pockets to store items, which is also removable but is a little tricky to get out.  You have to peel away the Velcro, stick you hand between the strap and the bag and slide it out over the top so it doesn’t re-stick itself on the way out.

I found the tripod cup was perfect for sitting the legs of my stabiliser into whilst strapping the body to the outside of the bag for easy access.

There is also a utility bag you can connect to the loops on the outside as well as a 1 litre bottle pouch which for me is one of the best part of the bag. Having water accessible without having to carry it around in your hand makes it a practical solution to staying hydrated whilst your out filming.

The straps and clips are both adjustable and feel like they are high quality, all able to be adjusted. The extra strap can also be tucked away under these elastic bands to stop them from flapping around and getting in your way.

The zips are quite large making them easy to undo, and the large loops on the zippers make them easy to grab onto and undo without fumbling around.

Inside design and layout

Inside the bag is heaps of these hook and loop velcro dividers to change the space inside to suite different size lenses, cameras and other gear you need to stow away inside. The material is very soft and padded making it perfect to keep all your gear inside free from damage.

Rain Cover

Speaking of free from damage, there’s a rain cover tucked underneath the base that you can pull out and completely cover the bag even with a small tripod strapped to the outside. Making it water and dust proof which is a really nice addition. I especially like how there’s elastic inside it to make it sit over the bag easily and not come away.

Having been caught in the rain a few times with this bag, I can safely say the rain cover does a great job at keeping the bag itself dry and everything inside protected.


The current price for this one is $199 US or $250 AUD which I think is value for money when you consider how much the camera gear your carrying around is worth.

Outside of that there is two zip pockets I use to put extra cables and power banks a small pad and pen to keep at the ready. There’s these small covers that hide the zips when they’re closed to stop them from rubbing against any of your gear with the bag closed up which is a nice design feature.

These small pockets on the side near the top hard shell are really handy for a small multi tool or even keys. One of them has a key clip which makes it perfect to stow them away in.

My Setup

I have it setup so my camera sits in the size compartment so I don’t have to completely remove the bag to pull my camera out and start shooting.
I store my lenses in the compartments inside along with a couple of power banks, SD cards, lense cleaning items, and an on-board microphone with a windshield on it.

In the inside zip pockets the extra cables sit in one and a notebook and pen in the other. If I’m out for a whole day and need a way to offload footage my 13” MacBook air sits inside the sleeve.

Outside I have the water bottle bag attached, alongside the utility bag and tripod cup to sit the stabiliser legs inside and the top half secured with a strap.

My tripod is usually strapped to the outside using the slip locks and extra strap supplied, I’ll keep and extra battery in the utility belt for accessibility as well.


One downside to this bag is the fact that it only came with 2 outside straps to secure a tripod and other gear to the outside, it would have been much better if there was enough straps included to secure a lot more or even some carabiners included.


This bag is comfortable to wear for long periods
Keeps your camera gear safe

Makes your filming process easier with how easily accessible every thing inside is

The Modular design makes it easy to attach many more utility bags and other gear to the outside of the bag making use of the extra space.

It sits very well on your back and is breathable which is perfect for hot weather.

Hard shell top ensures protection from harsh environments.

All around it is a great investment to keep camera gear safely stowed away until you need to use it.

Who is this for?

This bag is suited for photographers or videographers who have a number of lenses they like to carry with them. Needing a well designed backpack that makes removing and stowing your camera away easy and without having to take the back pack off completely.

If you don’t like super heavy bags this one is perfect for that. It’s comfortable to wear, with different points of support for your waist and shoulders with the padded straps.

It’s very customizable to, so if you like to add or take things away from your setup all the time to make it work for you, this bag is perfect for that.


Well I hope you enjoyed this review, if you did leave it a comment down below.

Thanks for reading and while your here, check out some other reviews I’ve done!

You can buy the camera bag down below to help support my work at no extra cost to you 🙂

(affiliate link) Amazon AU:

(affiliate link) Amazon US:

DJI Ronin SC Camera Stabilizer Review! 2021

Hey guys! Will here, and today I’ll be reviewing the  Ronin SC a stabilization rig from DJI, I’ve been using the Ronin SC for a few months and so far it’s been a game  changer for making videos.


The ronin SC is very well suited for small mirrorless cameras but with some of the larger models and DSLRs you might run into troubles with balancing so it’s worth checking out compatibility before you buy.


All up the setup weighs just 1.2kg and has a payload of up to 2kg. The battery life is very decent lasting up to 11 hours if the gimbal is balanced correctly, 


theres also the option of connecting a battery pack if you do run low whilst your shooting so if you have a couple of those spare battery life isn’t really a problem you’ll run into.


It’s come in 2 price points,  (US) $279 for the basic kit and (US) $329 for the pro version which comes with a follow focus system.


What is it?


The Ronin-SC is a 3-axis stabilizer for mirrorless cameras like the Sony A6600 which is what I’m using to shoot this video on. It gives your filming a more professional look without having to spend thousands on a professional setup.


Another term used for these is a gimbal, Gimbals have a number of practical uses ranging from film to aerospace applications.


Space shuttle orbiters used gimbals to vector the thrust from their main engines during launch for example so instead of the 


How does it work?


By making micro adjustments to the Tilt, Roll, and Pan axis to keep the Camera stable and remove any unwanted movement in what your filming.



Basic Operations

Turn on. Press and hold power button on gimbal. Beeps.


Lock camera orientation. Press and hold trigger. Light blinks green.


Recenter. Double tap trigger. 


Self portrait mode. Triple tap trigger.


Switch user profiles. Press M Button. 1 Pan tilt Follow, slow, medium. 2 Pan follow slow, medium. 3 Pan tilt follow, slow, low.


Auto tune. Press trigger and M button simultaneously 6 seconds.


Fix drifting. App – Status – System Calibration.


Joystick calibration. Tap trigger 4 times hold on last. Lights blink. Rotate Joystick. If blinks green calibration success, blinks red failed, repeat


Sport Mode. Press and hold M button. Light turns yellow. Release M button to exit. Double tap trigger while holding M button to lock sport mode.


Flashlight mode. Press and hold trigger, tilt Ronin horizontally.


Underslung mode. Press and hold trigger, tilt Ronin upside down. Or double tap power button, tilt Ronin upside down. Rotate gimbal roll axis to ensure camera upright. Double tap power button to engage motors.


What cameras does it work with? Heavy setups vs Light setups

Before picking up one of these it’s worth making sure that your setup and camera is going to work, with that being said I’ve left some links down below if you want to confirm that with your own setups.

DJI Ronin SC camera compatibility list:…

Focus Control


The motion lapse feature is a great way to level up your time lapses here’s a couple I took to give you an idea of how it works, you basically setup to different way points within the app, how many photos you want taken and how often and it will go through and do it’s thing, slowly panning between the two way points to give you a really unique looking time lapse.


The follow focus is super easy to use once you get it mounted to the Ronin SC which is the hardest part a simple double press on the control wheel button will tune the follow focus system so it can find it’s parameters to work properly, if you don’t do this the motor that turns the focus ring hardly moves around, so important that you do this step.



A slight downside here is using the sony edge app and your smartphone for live monitoring.


I experienced a delay between the live monitoring on the smartphone and what was shown on the camera’s display which makes it unusable.

 I’m thinking it’s an issue with the sony smart edge app and the smartphone rather than with the Ronin SC though.


So that’s just a heads up if you’re planning to use your android phone for live monitoring with a Sony specific setup on the Ronin SC I would instead opt for a different live monitoring setup instead.



So an 11 hour battery life

360 degree roll feature

follow focus


lockable arms for easy balancing

and super smooth footage

make this an ideal investment for anyone looking to improve the way they make movies.



I can easily recommend this setup for anyone looking for a stabiliser rig that can be taken with you for a shoot and not be just another piece of heavy gear to lug around.


I strap this one onto the side of my camera bag for convenience but due to its size you could easily store it inside as well.


Well that’s all from me there will be a link to the Ronin SC down below if you want to check it out.

US (PAID LINK) DJI Ronin SC$279 :

(PAID LINK) DJI Ronin SC Pro Kit $349:

prices at time of video AU

(PAID LINK)DJI Ronin SC $405:

(PAID LINK) DJI Ronin SC Pro Kit $594:

prices at time of video

M1. Apple’s Most Powerful Chip… Ever.

Apple’s recent event caused quite the conversation amongst Apple enthusiasts and critics alike with the announcement of their very own chip designed exclusively for the Mac with power efficiency and small form factor being just some of the critical design elements of this new powerhouse of a chip.

M1 boasts a build process that includes a mind-boggling 5-nanometre-process and has 16 billion transistors, which according to Apple is the most they have ever squeezed into a chip of this size. So what does this mean for you then, the end-user?

Huge Performance Leap

M1 delivers 3.5x faster CPU performance, 6x faster GPU performance, and 15x faster machine learning but what really peaked everyone’s attention was the 2x battery life than the previous generation of Macs.

GPU, CPU, I/O, Security All in 1

One of the most impressive design elements of the M1 is the integration of multiple pieces of hardware inside the new Macs. This means that instead of having your CPU, Graphics, Security, and I/O split up into individual chips it’s now all apart of one individual chip that improves how collectively these new generations of Mac will function.

CPU Performance

M1 has an 8-core CPU consisting of four high-performance cores and four high-efficiency cores. These are the world’s fastest CPU cores in low-power silicon which is good news for photographers editing in RAW high res images and developers building apps faster than ever before.

So in short high-performance cores are best for single-threaded tasks and all four in conjunction give a big increase in multithreaded performance.

Integrated Graphics

M1 also features integrated graphics utilizing its 8 cores to handle seamless playback of multiple 4k video streams to 3D rendering scenes and boasts 2.6 teraflops of throughput.

Machine Learning Speed

Tasks such as voice recognition, image processing, and video analysis have also been improved with the chip design allowing you to edit up to 6k video in Apples own iMovie with a MacBook Air.

M1 Mac Air, Pro, and Mini

Apple’s M1 chip is in the new MacBook Air, 13-inch MacBook Pro, and Mac mini all with varying price ranges the mac mini starts off at A$1,099 the Macbook Air A$1,599 leaving the MacBook Pro Starting at A$1,999.

These are available in Australia starting from the 17th of November 2020. It will be interesting to see how many people will make the upgrade to experience what these new generations of Mac can help them create.

GoPro Hero 8 Review: 2020

Today I’ll be reviewing the GoPro Hero 8 Black.


I’ve been using the GoPro for the last few weeks and have been testing out all its features in video and photo-taking.


So today, I’ll be giving you guys some insight into what the Hero 8 does well and some of its downfalls.


Before we get started though, I also made a YouTube Video reviewing the GoPro which you can check out down below if you prefer video.



Design Voice Controls
Features Video
GoPro Colour Profile Livestreaming
Microphone Cons
Menu System / Presets Conclusion


Design-wise the Hero 8 has a small pocketable form factor with a grippy textured body. The lens is quite large in comparison and a microphone is positioned right beneath.

GoPro Hero 8

On the side of the camera, you have the mode button to switch between time-lapse, video and camera modes, and a long press will power the camera on and off. 


There’s an additional microphone right beside the mode switch to pick up more sound.


The other side has a detachable battery door, which pops off quite easily, and inside is the battery, SD card slot, and USB C port. 



Underneath is 2 mounting fingers which make it easy to attach to the wide range of GoPro accessories. The main ones I used were the helmet mount, and chesty for mountain bike riding, running and hiking but there’s so many too chose from.


I also used the chesty mount on my dog who is a medium-sized dog, he’s a Staffy so it’s well suited for medium to larger breeds but not so well suited for smaller breeds.


Once the mountings are extended they uncover a speaker used to playback the audio from the footage which is reasonably loud given its size.


gopro hero 8 speaker


The touch screen on the rear is responsive and has a clear display to show what’s in the frame for each shot.


gopro hero 8 touch screen


On top there’s a large button for recording and taking photos which I found to be reasonably easy to operate whilst holding onto the camera with a single hand.


To test how long the battery lasted, I did a battery rundown test with the camera set to continuous recording at 4k60 fps, with high bit rate recording at 100mbps, GPS and wireless-enabled. 


The 1200 milliamp hour battery lasted 50 minutes before completely running flat, which I guess is to be expected given the micro size. The hottest the camera got in that time was just 32 degrees celcius.


In case you owned previous models of GoPro, those batteries are all compatible with the Hero8 but some features aren’t available such as Hypersmooth stabilization set to boost and a few other features.


You could squeeze some extra time out of the batteries by disabling the GPS and wireless connection, turning off the recording lights and changing the settings to completely power down the GoPro when you switch it off,  because even if you do power it down you might not think it but it’s still using battery. 


This is because it’s by default set to standby to quickly power on and be ready for the next shot or video,  so all these little things will get some extra run time out of the battery but if your out shooting for a full day I would take back up batteries with you.



Onto the Hero 8 features now with Hypersmooth definitely being a standout, it removes shakiness out of the footage eliminating the need for a gimbal when recording video.


I found out of the four stabilization settings, Hypersmooth set to “ON” worked well whilst only applying a 10% crop to the frame, which isn’t much at all and still allowed me to get everything I wanted into the shot.  


I took some footage side by side with stabilization turned on and off to give you an idea of the difference it makes when you’re doing any kind of action sports.


This is where the Hero 8 really performs well, eliminating the need for any extra stabilization equipment, letting you focus more on capturing the kind of video you want.


The second most noteworthy feature is Timewarp, which allows you to record a time-lapse in 4k resolution and switch to real-time mid-way through recording.

You are able to do this by simply by tapping on the screen which slows the time-lapse down to realtime, to return to time-lapse mode you just tap the screen again recording speeds up.


I found this to be useful if you really want to highlight certain parts of time-lapse if your walking around, instead of just capturing one scene like in normal time-lapses it gives you a lot more flexibility.


There are also 4x digital lenses to capture the best view of what your up to, including a super wide 16mm lens, Wide 16-34mm, Linear 19-39mm, and narrow 27mm. 


For me, keeping it on Superview which uses the wider lense is great for action sports and point of view perspectives, capturing both the activity and some scenery into the shot, giving it a better overall look.


People forget that GoPro actually started out as solely a camera that took pictures, with no capability for video. Improvements have been made in photo taking as well. It isn’t as powerful as some of the flagship smartphone cameras, which is kind of odd to consider.


With a 12 megapixel camera which when coupled with the SuperPhoto preset really enhances images with more detail and sharpness when taking photos with HDR it removes motion blur, so both of these presets turn out some really nice images.

art mural on building


There is also the ability to shoot in RAW which any serious photographers out there will love for the extra flexibility it provides in post. These images were shot in RAW to give you an idea of how you can enhance them using Photoshop to allow you to give the image your own personal touch and look you were going for.

GoPro Hero 8 RAW photo

above: RAW unedited photo

RAW photo GoPro Hero 8

above: photo after edit

LiveBurst is another feature that is similar to what you get on your smartphone where you take a lot of images in a very short amount of time.


It takes 90 images in a 3-second short video, recording 1.5 seconds before the shutter button is pressed and 1.5 seconds after. This makes it easy to scrub through each frame and pick out the perfect shot you want or share a 3-second video clip in 4k resolution.


Another time-lapse mode available is Night Lapse,  I had it recording whilst digging up the backyard for a good hour to make some veggie patches. It captured everything quite well and even caught the sunrise in the background.


GoPro Colour Profile

When shooting videos I was impressed with GoPros color profile. It’s close to representing what the eye sees and especially in well-lit conditions when the camera’s sensor is getting a lot of light.

example of gopro colour profile

above: Screenshot from Video shot with GoPro Colour profile


The sky looks vibrant, trees and grass, and even people’s skin tone was close to spot on, overall the image has a nice graded look to it. Most serious video creators though will want to use the flat shooting profile to have that extra flexibility in post, similar to shooting photos in RAW.


For most users though, GoPro Colour will do fine. 




The internal microphone picks up decent quality audio, but I did find that even though they say the wind noise reduction is there I had it set to auto and still noticed quite a bit of wind noise getting through when mountain biking.


Another point to keep in mind is that when using the Timewarp feature slowing down to real-time there was no audio being recorded which isn’t great if you’ve decided to capture a special moment mid time-lapse that the audio is an important part of.


Who knows maybe with a firmware update they could make the microphone work during a time warp when switching to real-time.

Menu System / Presets


Navigating the menu system to change settings on the camera was really easy, within just a few taps you can change video settings, switch between time-lapse and photo, and the display itself is easy to see and responsive. 


One of the main problems previously for a lot of people who owned GoPros had was knowing what settings to adjust for different video shooting situations. 


On the Hero 8 they’ve made it super easy by creating 4 pre-made movie shooting presets that make it really easy to just choose a preset and point and shoot.


In particular, I found the Activity preset was well suited for action sports and any kind of activity where you are moving around a lot.


It also extends the time you can shoot using a resolution of 2.7k 60fps instead of 4k, so, smaller file sizes. The other 3 presets include Standard 1080p 60, Slo-Mo 1080p in 240 frames a second which is a lot of fun, and a more Cinematic shot in 4k 30.


If there’s one thing I would change about the presets though, it would be the ability to change the names of custom presets you make.


Yes, there is a long list of names to choose from, but sometimes you want slight variations of an already named preset, and it would be really convenient to name them individually so they’re easy to find without having to dig through each preset menu.


Voice Controls


Voice control is a handy feature and supports a total of 14 different commands.

My experience with this was the picture, video and time-lapse ones worked reliably but it was a little hit and miss. Some didn’t work at all, so it pays to check the picture was taken or it’s started recording.


If your hands are full though or you’re in a precarious place trying to take a photo, I can see how these would come in handy. The standard start and stop recording or take a picture worked pretty consistently though.




The Hero 8 Black will record up to 4k 60fps at it’s maximum quality however Hypersmooth Boost stabilization is unavailable at this setting, it is however available in 4k30.


There is also the option to record with a bit rate of 100mbps which is great for capturing the highest possible detail, but there is a slight trade-off of larger file sizes.


If you want the best possible quality footage then recording with a flat color profile and low sharpness will give you a completely different looking video after editing in post.


For those underwater diving enthusiasts out there, the Hero 8 can go down to a depth of 10m, any deeper than that though and you’ll want to use the enclosure accessory which allows for a total depth of up to 60m.


Live Streaming: YouTube, Facebook Live


You can also live-stream to YouTube, Facebook Live, and Twitch not Instagram though as it’s not yet been enabled on the platform.




So far I’ve covered all the features and great parts of the camera but there are also some downsides.


The battery door for one is definitely not ideal, the door actually detaches super easily, and to remove the battery there is this little plastic tab that seems too basic for this camera.


It would of been better I think if they incorporated the same design as you would see in a DSLR where theres a small spring and latch that locks the battery in place and you simply move it aside to release the battery which brings me to the location of the SD card.


You can’t physically remove the SD card without first removing the battery and even then you will want to have pretty good dexterity in your fingers to release it from the card bay.


I feel like this could have been positioned somewhere a little more user friendly instead of having to remove the battery completely to gain access to it.


The menu system did freeze up on me a few times which left me having to power down the camera and restart it. 


I also had a few instances while shooting in burst mode at 12 megapixels where the camera completely froze after taking the shots. Which again I could only get around by powering it down and turning it back on again, and the images hadn’t processed or saved to the SD card which was kind of disappointing.


My only concerns with this camera are how unprotected the lens is and rear LCD though there are screen and lens protectors available you can also subscribe to GoPro plus for $5 a month which gives you a maximum of 2 replacement cameras per year if anything happens to it in that time.


If you want to keep the lens damage free I would either invest in the screen protector kit ($20) or for another $80 you can get an enclosure called a Super Suite (links down below).




Apart from those couple of points, the GoPro Hero 8 performed really well for what I was using it for. The lens captures a sharp image and the higher bit rate for recording in both 2.7k and 4k makes it an ideal pocketable action camera.


The GoPro audio and light mods available make it a lightweight option for vloggers too, so it’s well worth considering if you’re looking for a super lightweight setup for vlogging.


All in all, this is definitely an impressive little camera for taking traveling or on an adventure, with some powerful features that will serve anyone looking to up their video game, and still be able to take really nice images. 


The thing to consider is if it serves a purpose between a larger DSLR camera and your smartphone. 


I think for action sports or outdoor activities it definitely has a place, smartphones definitely burn through battery shooting in 4k though and DSLRs can run a much higher price. You definitely need to carry extra batteries on board if you are out for a full day of shooting with the GoPro however.


What makes the GoPro so good is its the small form factor. GoPro is pretty well known for having a rugged build and the quality of video and images they can produce are impressive.


I can definitely recommend this to anyone looking for a super small pocketable camera to take traveling. It’s also perfect for recording some interesting point of view shots in whatever sport your into without having to worry about shakiness in the footage.


There will be a link to the GoPro Hero8 along with some of the accessories I used to film below.


Amazon Links GoPro Hero 8

(PAID LINK) (Australia)


Chesty Accessory

(PAID LINK) (Australia) (PAID LINK) (US)

Helmet mount

(PAID LINK) (Australia)


Enclosure (Super Suit)

(PAID LINK) (Australia)


Lens protector kit…

How to build a 4k video editing PC in 2020


This is a step by step guide here to building a 4k editing PC in 2020 on a budget. Featuring the Ryzen 5 2600 CPU, today we’re going to get started by going over the hardware installation, basically assembling the PC. Then moving on to downloading and installing the drivers and finally seeing how it performs.

My goal here was to build a 4k editing work station, without wasting money on unnecessary components. After testing it, and editing a video for YouTube it held up well!

Jump to a section

The Parts

Setting up/ Things you’ll need

CPU Installation

CPU Cooler Installation

Memory Installation

Prepping the Case

Motherboard Installation

Power Supply Installation

Front Panel Connectors


Hard Drives and SSDs

Power Cables

Graphics Card Installation

Cable Management



Setting up/ Things you’ll need

Tools needed are a magnetic parts tray, a knife, pair of side cutters, needle nose pliers, thermal compound, cable ties, and  a size 1 and size 2 Philips head screwdriver.


Set up anti static workspace

Open up power supply, flip switch to off position, plug it in to ground chassis.

To remove any static electricity built up in your body you simply place your hand on the power supply.

corsair 500 watt power supply unit

Another way to prevent static electricity is to not build a PC in a carpeted room stick to a wooden or tiled floor but if you can’t help that setting up a static safe work environment is the next best call.

Clear some space in work area

Next start with your mother board.

Goal: build a 4k editing work station, without wasting money on unnecessary components.

Next start with your mother board. After unpackaging the motherboard go ahead and set the I.O. shield aside for later on.

Use the motherboard box as a test bench, it keeps debris away from the board that might be on your work surface. It’s also an alternative to one of those anti-static mats you can buy.

motherboard box test bench

CPU Installation


For this build, the CPU I chose was the  AMD ryzen 5 2600. It has 6 cores which is enough to handle 4k editing. Its base clock speed is 3.4GHz and can boost up to  3.9Ghz.

amd ryzen 5 2600 CPU

Time to install it.

Step 1

Take your CPU out of it’s packaging and take not of the golden triangle on the lower left side of the CPU. 

AMD Ryzen 5 2600 CPU golden triangle mark

This triangle lines up with the triangle on the processor socket. Turn the CPU to match the 2 triangles up.

Gigabyte B450 gaming AM4 Socket triangle marker

Step 2

Lift the Metal arm on the CPU socket out and all the way up, lower the processor into the socket.


It shouldn’t take any force to drop in if it does the orientation is incorrect or the metal arm hasn’t been raised. Once it’s dropped into place lower the metal arm back down and now the CPU is installed.


Memory Installation

For our memory I’ve gone with a nice low latency DDR4 3000 kit from Corsair. I went with 16gigs of ram in an 8gig by 2 configuration. This allows for dual channel operation for better performance and gives us plenty of expansion for the future so I can go up to 32gigs with no problems.

corsair ddr4 3000mhz vengance lpx memory


Start by pulling back the tabs for the ram slot this motherboard both sides will pull back but some more modern boards you can only pull back one of the two.

When lining up the memory carefully check the position of the notch, in order for it to fit in the slot correctly. 

line it up and then push firmly on both sides until you hear a click on each end.


SSD installation

Nows it’s time to install the N.2 SSD I’m using a 250Gig 970 from Samsung but the instructions are the same regardless.

samsung 970 ssd


First find the N.2 slot on your motherboard, hold the SSD up against it to see which mounting post is going to be suitable.

This one is already in the right position to suit this SSD so all we need to do is remove the screw and set it aside on the magnetic tray so we don’t lose it.

You won’t need a lot of force when installing your SSD hand tight is just fine. As for the drive itself, it installs just like laptop memory.

So you go up at an angle, push it into the slot and then just hold it down in place while you’re screwing it in.

SSD install

Something to watch out for here guys is that while most computer screws are size 2 Philips these are usually size 1s. So you’re probably going to need to change your bit before you finish installing.

CPU cooling installation

Now lets turn our attention to cooling, AMD processors come with a heat sink in the box and also come from the factory with thermal compound already applied, which ensures proper heat transfer to keep your CPU cool.

wraith CPU cooler

First remove the brackets that came already fitted to the motherboard the cooler screws directly to the motherboard so you won’t need these. The backing plate won’t be removed we will use this to screw the cooler into so it can stay in place.

remove brackets B450

When you’re fitting the heat sink first make sure that where the cable is coming out is somewhat close to the CPU fan connector on the motherboard.


The screws are spring-loaded so you do need to apply some pressure as you’re screwing them in to get started on the thread.

installing CPU cooler

I recommend getting all 4 started then tightening down evenly so that there is equal pressure onto the CPU you don’t won’t uneven contact so tighten them down until they’re firm.


 As your going it pays to package back up the boxes and put them aside away from your work area to keep it nice and tidy, it saves you having to do a big clean up at the end.


Preparing case

NZXT H510i case

I went with the NZXT 510 mid tower case because it has nice cable management options, a glass side panel which is going back in the box to keep it scratch-free until the build is done.

You can see inside the case here is a pretty standard layout there is a bottom mounted power supply, standard ATX layout and then an exhaust fan out the back.


As I’m removing screws from the case to keep them safe I’m putting them in this magnetic parts tray, you can write on the tray itself if you aren’t going to remember where they went or alternatively you can use zip lock backs with labels to do the same.



Motherboard Installation

Now it’s time to install the motherboard, to do that, we’re going to need to install the I.O shield first.


Do a test fit of the IO shield over the ports on the motherboard before you install it to make sure it’s got enough clearance, otherwise they can stick into the ports and short them out which we definitely don’t want to happen.


Now we install it into the back of the case by lining it up, then pressing on each corner.


The last thing we need to check, is if the correct standoffs are installed inside the case.

This one is good it’s actually got the 9 standard ATX ones pre-installed including one of these handy locator stand off  that will hold the board in place for you while your screwing in the rest of them.


Because this is a micro ATX mother board we’ll be removing these outside 2 standoffs and the middle one needs to move in 1 hole to correctly line up with the mounting holes in the motherboard. To do that, grab some long nose pliers and unscrew the 2 standoffs to re-position the middle one


case stand offs


Be careful to check the standoffs before installing your motherboard because if you’ve got an extra standoff scratching along the back of your board, it can actually cut these traces, destroying your motherboard, which won’t be covered under warranty.


To double-check this you just pick up the board, handle it by the edges, plastic connectors or back plates. I really like holding onto the CPU cooler because assuming you’ve got one with a decent mounting mechanism, that’s a really really secure handhold for it.


As you lower in the board, I like to have it at about a 10 to 15-degree angle as I’m sliding it towards the back of the case, that prevents us from scraping the back of the board along with any standoffs that might or might not be in the right spots.

B450 gigabyte motherboard install


Now that we’ve re-positioned the motherboard we’re going to use that little locating standoff to hold it in place and look through every hole and make sure that we can see exactly the right number of standoffs that we were expecting to see. You might need the torch on your phone if you’re having trouble seeing the standoffs.


I can see that each mounting hole has a corresponding standoff so we can go ahead and screw the board in. 


Motherboard screws and any additional screws and standoffs are all included in the hardware that comes with your case. We’re going to be using the 6/32 button head screws.


If you’re even not sure that you’ve got the right screw, you can always just hand thread one in, and as long as it goes easily, you’ll know that you’re not going to cross-thread it.


Don’t over-tighten these if you can help it, once you start to meet resistance give it another 1/8th of a turn, that’s it. Now, look at that! It’s in!


Power Supply Installation

corsair 550 watt power supply

Now since were done handling most of the ESD sensitive components of our build, we can go ahead and install our power supply now.

Power Cables

Before mounting it were going to plug in the cables first to make it easier. Were going to be using the CPU power cable, the VGA power cable to power the Graphics card, and finally the cable with the 24 pin plug that will hook up to the motherboard.

power supply cables


I’m going to go fan side down because this case has lots of space on the underside to draw in fresh air, prevent placing your PC on carpeted floors because there is little if any air flow to keep it cool!


Now as we’re putting it in we can just place it down, push towards the motherboard and then slide into the back of the case, then using the            6-32 x 4 screws to secure the power supply.

power supply installation


Although it seems like there’s a lot of cables you can put them in 3 main groups. The cables from the power supply that powers motherboard and graphics card, the case cables which connect the ports and buttons on the top of the case to the motherboard and the fan cables which connect to the motherboard also.


Front Panel Connectors

It’s best here to check the motherboard manual, it gives you clear instructions on were each pin needs to be installed.

The B450 motherboard has a splitter cable that divides the pins up into individual connectors, so you really need to manual to see which pin goes were.

Fan Connectors

There is one fan connector near the PCI 16x slot which is a good place to run the wire down from the top to connect one of the case fans.

nzxt case fan connector

nzxt case fan connector

The other connector is located next to the RAM slots.

Plug Cables into the motherboard

We’ll connect the case cables first. If your not sure where the cables go the motherboard manual is great for reference here. For this motherboard the USB 3 cable will plugin as sown in the picture below, the HD Audio cable is near the same area of the motherboard.

usb 3.0 connection

HD audio cable connection


This main power cable connects to the motherboard, and the clip corresponds to the little clip on the side there.

24 pin motherboard connection

Next up we’ve got our 8 pin EPS connector, you can tell the difference between this one and an 8 pin PCIE express connector in a couple of ways.


One is that if it splits apart it will split into 4 and 4 instead of 6 and 2 and the second way is that many PCIE Express connectors actually have the gap betwee 2 of the pins bridged, here you can tell theres still a little gap because it’s a 6 + 2.


Also they helpfully label them, CPU. So this one goes right up the top, again lining the clip up with the hook and I found the best way to cable manage this one is to run it out the back of the case.

CPU power connector

For PCI Express the type of cables your going to use will depend on your graphics card, I’m using a GTX 1660 that has 8 pin power connector.

Cable Management

It’s fairly standard to find disposable cable ties in the packaging for your power supply or your case or both, but if you want to secure larger wires together I would recommend getting some of these velcro ties.

velcro ties wire management


This case include loops for wire management and is really convenienct when you’re trying to build a PC.


To achieve a decent cable management job your main focus is to make sure that no wires are crossing over each other and that they are flat against the case, if they aren’t flat you will have a lot of trouble refitting the rear case panel.

pc cable management


Graphics card installation

Next up is the graphics card installation, we will start by taking out the second and third from the top PCI slot covers that sit below the 16X slot were the graphics card will be mounted. There’s a single screw that holds in each slot cover, remove these with the number 2 size Philips head screwdriver.

picture of PCI slot covers


You also need to loosen 2 screws holding a sliding plat near the PCI slots and move it outward in order to fit the graphics card in.

Most graphics cards have a double-wide I.O. plate that accommodates extra ports and larger coolers needed by more power cards.


Now we can prepare the slot by moving the tab back, to allow the card to be fitted.

I found it easier to line up the IO first and checked it was aligned at the rear of the case, making sure the tabs are inside the case instead of outside otherwise they won’t go in.

Once it looks aligned switch back to this side and look down through the gaps you’ll notice the holes, that confirms it’s in the right spot and finally check to make sure the back tab on the card is seated correctly.


Push down with even pressure until you hear a click and that’s it! If the tab locks back into place, which it seems that it has then it’s installed, lets go ahead and install the screws to secure it to the case. 

Refit the slot cover screws now to secure the graphics card to the case.

securing graphics card to case

Now we’ll go ahead and connect the PCI Express connector to power the card.

Now that we’ve got this installed we’re close to booting it up for the first time.


Plugin the power cable and switch the power supply on.

We’ll plug in our monitor, keyboard, wireless adapter for the mouse and keyboard and we’re ready to push the power button.

Upon first start hitting the delete key repeatedly will enter the BIOS to see if all the components are showing and here we can change our memory speed because as standard it will default to a slower speed.

bios screen

Once at the BIOS screen Open Advanced Memory Settings amd straight away you can see the memory frequency is only running at 2100 Mhz to change it to our faster rated speed select Extreme Memory Profile or XMP and Select Profile 1.

Extreme memory profile 1

Straight away you can see the speed has changed to 3000 Mhz so all theres left to do is save and exit and from there install windows. 

Windows Install

I’ve created a Windows boot USB drive to installed and also purchased a copy of Windows. When it loads into windows setup you enter the product key if you have a licensed version and just follow the prompts to install windows.


Once Windows is installed and your connected to the network we then need to install the drivers for motherboard, LAN ethernet, AUDIO, Graphics card and in this case I’ll be using a wireless USB adapter so I’ll be needing drivers for that as well. This motherboard doesn’t come with a wireless card standard so that’s the reason for going with the USB wireless option here.


You can download each driver from the manufacturers’ website and just save them to your desktop, then unzip each folder and load the setup and complete each install procedure which is pretty straight forward especially if you chose the express install option.

*links to manufacturers websites*


I went with this Wi-Fi Adaptor by ASUS that is able to handle 4k streaming and is a good alternative to a Wifi card you have to install to the motherboard. It just plugs straight into a usb port and now that we have our driver installed we can connect it straight to the WiFi network.


To stress-test the CPU I’m just running it through a render of Cinebench R20 to see how it performs, I was pretty happy with the score it got and the great thing about Cinebench is you can compare the score once you’re done with other PC builds online.

cinebench r20 test

I also edited this video on this PC as well and was impressed with how it handles 4k footage both scrubbing through the timeline and overall workflow was pretty great.


Thanks for reading this guide! all parts are listed below. leave a comment if you have any questions or have built a PC as well and what your favourite parts of the build were.

The Parts

Links to all the parts used in the build

Buy AMD 2600 CPU On Amazon (PAID LINK):

Buy Gigabyte B450M Pro4 Motherboard On Amazon (PAID LINK):

Buy CORSAIR 2 x 8GB RAM On Amazon (PAID LINK):

Buy Samsung 970 SSD 250GB On Amazon (PAID LINK):

Buy GigabyteGTX 1660 6G Graphics Card On Amazon (PAID LINK):

Buy NZXT H510i On US Amazon (PAID LINK):

Buy CORSAIR 550w PSU On Amazon (PAID LINK):

Buy ASUS Nano wireless usb hub On US Amazon (PAID LINK):


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How to replace the battery: Mid 2012 Macbook Pro 13inch

Hey guys Will here, today I’m going to go through the process on how to replace the battery on a 2012 MacBook Air.

The batteries died on this one it won’t work unless it’s plugged in all the time, it also needs to be cleaned out there’s a lot of dust and dirt that’s built up inside, it hasn’t been serviced in a long time so we’ll be going through that process as well.

Jump to a section

Battery Removal


Battery Installation

Battery Calibration

Tools Required

The tools and consumables you’ll need are a T5 sized Torx screwdriver, P5 pentalobe screwdriver and a can of compressed air, along with a set of rubber gloves, paper towel and windex.

T5 Torx screwdriver P5 Pentalobe screwdriver
tools needed
consumables needed

Before we get started, power down the MacBook, close the display, and lay it on a soft surface top-side down.

topside down view

Battery Removal

Step 1

Use a p5 pentalobe driver to remove 10 screws securing the lower case. There will be two 9 millimeter screws and eight 2.6 millimeter screws. Take note of were the longer screws came out of so you can put them back in the right places.

10x screws for lower case. Use P5 pentalobe screw driver


Step 2

Wedge your fingers between the display and the lower case and pull upward to pop the lower case off the air.

macbook air 13 inch mid 2012 lower case removal
wedge fingers between case to remove

Remove the lower case and set it aside.


Next up is cleaning, using the compressed air can, spray off any dirt or debris that’s built up inside and pay special attention to the fan assembly.

can compressed air
use compressed air to clean off dust and dirt

This is where a lot of dust and dirt accumulates so getting this as clean as possible is probably your main focus. A good way to clean the fan assembly is to spin it by hand and use the compress air to blow out the dust that has accumulated inside of it.

Also clean the fins on the rear cover which allow air to flow into the fan and onto the logic board. It’s important you get this clean so use the compressed air to blow out any dust that’s build up inside these fins.

Spray some windex on some paper towel next and wipe the inside of the rear cover, you can see the rubber stripping inside, this is what sits over the top of the batteries so make sure this is really clean before you put it back together.

Step 3

Now that we’ve finished cleaning inside it’s time to remove the battery. Grab the clear plastic pull tab attached to the battery connector and pull it toward the front edge of the air to disconnect the battery from the logic board.

Be careful not to lift upward on the connector as you disconnect it.

pull tab to release battery plug and cable

Step 4

Remove the following five screws. There’ll be three 6.3 millimetre t5 tort screws and two 2.4 millimetre t5 tori screws.

macbook pro 13 inch mid 2012 battery mounting screws
battery mounting screws to remove

Before removing the battery be sure not to squeeze or touch the exposed lithium polymer cells.

Lift the battery from its edge nearest the logic board and remove it from the upper case.

New Battery Installation

Step 1

When you re-install the battery line the cable up with the connector, this makes it a lot easier to fit and once it’s all the home you can then line the battery up with it’s mounting holes.

macbook pro 13 inch mid 2012 battery installation
line battery plug up with connector to make it easier when installing new battery assembly

Step 2

Now re-install the battery mounting screws, the three longer screws go in the top three holes and the shorter ones in the bottom holes.

When installing the new battery, if there is a thin plastic film on your replacement battery do not attempt to remove it, it is glued on and protects the battery back while it’s inside the MacBook.

Step 3

Re-install the lower case using 10 screws keeping in mind where the two longer screws are situated.


If you’re installing a new battery, it’s important to calibrate it after you’ve installed it. The calibration process is as follows.

Step 1

You start by charging it to 100% and keep charging it for at least two more hours.

Step 2

Then unplug it and use it normally to drain the battery. When you see the low battery warning, save your work, keep your laptop on until it goes to sleep due to low battery.

Step 3

Wait at least 5 hours and then charge your laptop uninterrupted to 100% and this will calibrate the battery so you get the most life out of it moving forward.

So that’s all from me, if you guys enjoyed this post make sure to leave a comment.